Tucked up in bed as a seven-year-old living in North Wales, in the days before smartphones and podcasts, my constant companion was Ladybird books, preferably the historical ones. I loved Henry VIII (I called it Henry Vill to annoy my sister) and Sir Francis Drake, but my absolute favourite was ‘The Story of Nelson’. Fifty years later, here I am living in “Nelson’s County” and the lustre of this great British hero sparkles as brightly as ever.
Historical interpretation has changed a great deal over the last fifty years. We may now be encouraged to view the age of ‘Great Men’ with cynicism, to question the impact of Empire and much else we were once taught. But to me, Nelson is the quintessential hero. A naval genius — flamboyant, flawed, loyal and brave. Norfolk is rightly proud of its great son and his presence is evident throughout the county. Nowhere is this more evident than at All Saints, Burnham Thorpe which I revisited recently.
One of the pleasures of church crawling is the social history connected to every church. Nelson aside, there are numerous other nautical connections evident in many of the churches along and around Norfolk’s 90-mile coastline. They range from the delicate medieval ship graffiti at Cley, to the sobering mass grave of the shipwreck of HMS Invincible in 1801 at Happisburgh. Nelson is clearly the biggest name, but I have recently visited a number of churches that have connections with other fascinating Norfolk nautical heroes. My next few blogs will delve into these intriguing characters and the wonderful buildings they are linked to.
All Saints, Burnham Thorpe – Admiral Horatio Nelson
One of six surviving Burnham churches, All Saints sits peacefully in the lovely village of Burnham Thorpe. Approaching from the east, the east chancel wall is covered in a gorgeous, chequered pattern of flint and stone. A 15th century tower has been reduced in height after partially collapsing in the 18th century. Above it flutters the pre-1801 White Ensign flag that would have been familiar to Nelson from his many battles. The nave has north and south aisles topped with a clerestory. There has been a substantial 19th century restoration inside and out, but this has been done sympathetically, and the overall effect is light and spacious.
There is much to please the Nelson enthusiast inside, but it doesn’t feel overdone. Nelson’s father, Edmund, was rector here and Horatio was born in the old rectory, since demolished. Two of Nelson’s siblings are buried in the graveyard and there is a simple plaque to another, Edmund, on the chancel wall. Two large flags from the HMS Nelson hang at the west end. At the east end of the aisles are two more, flown from HMS Indomitable at the great First World War sea battle of Jutland. The lectern is fashioned from a beam of Nelson’s flagship, the HMS Victory.
In the chancel are two ledger stones to Nelson’s parents, Edmund and Catherine (nee Suckling) and on the north wall a bust of Nelson and a further memorial to his father. The 1420 brass to William Calthorpe sits in splendour next to Edmund’s ledger stone and there is also a magnificent 15th century canopy over the sedilia and piscina. There is no doubt that Nelson had happy memories of his childhood here and was proud of his roots, once declaring to the people of Great Yarmouth, “I am myself a Norfolk man, and glory in being so”.
St Margaret, Burnham Norton – Captain Richard Woodget
Visiting churches can be a singular, peaceful experience, but occasionally you can bump into another enthusiast who sends you off on another line of enquiry. As I was admiring the Saxon-Norman round tower at Burnham Norton, I met someone who was searching for the grave of one Richard Woodget. This local sea captain was one of the last, and best, of the skippers of the famous clipper, The Cutty Sark. These beautiful ships were the speedsters of their day, built for the Chinese tea trade. The opening of the Suez Canal and emergence of steam power put paid to this route, but the Cutty Sark turned her attention to the wool trade with Australia.
Captain Woodget ran this route for 10 years and in 1886 he brought the ship back from Sydney to London in a record-breaking 73 days. Much like Nelson, Woodget earned the complete trust of his crew. He would sail further south than previous captains, into the dangerous ‘roaring forties’. They would come across severe gales and icebergs but then catch the strong winds that propelled them homeward at top speed. His grave, with a distinctive anchor, lies to the west of the tower.
St Margaret is set on a hill outside Burnham Market with views over the marshes and the North Sea. The round tower is impressively large and the rest of the 13th century building is full of charm and interesting furnishings. The outstanding feature is the richly coloured wineglass pulpit from the 15th century. Delightfully narrow, the panels show the four Latin Doctors – St Gregory, St Augustine, St Ambrose and St Jerome – with the final two panels depicting the donors, John and Katherine Goldalle. The pulpit alone is enough to instigate a visit, but there is also a painted screen, remnants of old wall painting, a solid, square Norman font and an intriguing wafer oven with its chimney ascending through the wall. A short walk away, and well worth the stroll, is the splendid gatehouse of the Carmelite Friary.
Next month’s blog will look at more of Norfolk’s nautical heroes, including Nelson’s protégé, two sensational churches, murder on the Scilly Isles and adventures on the Spanish Main. Meanwhile, as a new grandfather, I am going to look out my Ladybird books so I can inspire the next generation!
Rob Gladstone January 2026
